It's night in Salvador and you hear drumming. It may be coming from one of the numerous terreiros de candomblé scattered throughout the city. Most terreiros will permit visitors to attend their ceremonies. Should you go, dress respectfully. Trousers for men, and women should wear longer skirts. White is best because it is respectful to all the orixás. ("Orixá" is commonly translated as "god". A more accurate representation would perhaps be "saint". Candomblé posits a monotheistic supreme being -- usually referred to as Olodumaré -- with the orixás being called upon as intermediaries between earthbound humans and the all-powerful, much as a Christian will pray for a saint's intercession on his or her behalf.) If you speak Portuguese and would like to find information with respect to various houses of candomblé, where they are located, what nights they hold their ceremonies, and when they have their special festas, a good place to go is the FEDERAÇÃO BAIANA DE CULTO AFRO BRASILEIRO, located at Rua Portas do Carmo, 39 (1st floor) in Pelourinho.
It's said that Salvador has a (Catholic) church for every day of the year, they're all over the place. But this number -- or whatever the true number is -- pales in comparison to the number of terreiros de candomblé in Salvador. An amazing project, the Mapeamento dos Terreiros de Salvador truly and literally puts this into perspective, detailing 1, 155 terreiros (and this doesn't include Itaparica!), with maps, satellite and other photos, leaders' names, addresses and contact and other information. The practice of candomblé was at one time prohibited in Brazil (unofficially for centuries, and then officially by law between 1937 and 1945, during the Estado Novo of dictator Getúlio Vargas, who at the same time ironically, as part of his plan for the manipulation of the popular consciousness as a means for the further consolidation of his power, promoted Brazilian music and music which promoted Brazil, e.g. Ary Barroso's Aquarela do Brasil), and thereafter in Bahia a licence was required, the same that was required by nightclubs and gambling establishments. After a personal appeal by Mãe Stella of Ilê Axé Opô Afonjá to the governor of Bahia (Roberto Santos, in office from 1975 to 1979), this requirement was lifted, and new terreiros sprouted -- for the most part among the more humble neighborhoods -- like singing flowers weaving to the lovely melodies and gloriously complicated rhythms calling down to Salvador Iansã and Yemanjá, Dandalunda, Oxossi and Xangô...
The information in the mapeamento, above, is more up-to-date than the following. I'm leaving the following for now, though, in case it includes any information somehow left out of said mapeamento. CASA DE OXUMARÉ CASA BRANCA Casa Branca (White House), or Ilê Axé Yá Nassô, is usually cited as Salvador's first house of candomblé, but it might be better said to be Salvador's oldest continually functioning house of candomblé because candomblé was practiced in the senzalas and on the terreiros of the sugarcane plantations both before (and after) the house was established. The "house" (in an organizational sense) was first located on the Ladeira do Berquo -- now known as Rua Visconde de Itaparica -- behind the Igreja (Church) da Barroquinha (the church is easily visible from Praça Castro Alves; it burned in 1983 but the structure still stands). Ceremonies are on Sunday nights, beginning at 8 p.m.
GANTOIS (Ilê Axé Yá Massê) Gantois was the house of famous Mãe Menininha (mother of Mãe Carmem, who now presides over the terreiro...a lovely song in Mãe Menininha's honor was composed by Dorival Caymmi; Dona Ivone Lara -- first lady of samba -- sings the version below) ILÊ AXÉ OPÔ AFONJÁ ILÊ AXÉ NINFÁ OMIM |
Or there, as you like it...
Seaside & City
The Bahian Ethos & Zeitgeist
Congresses & Seminars
Up from Slavery
Stranger in a Strange Land
Picaresque Opulence
In the Cradle of Samba
The World's, Biggest, Party
Writer Bennet Paris
The Sacred and the Profana
Blood, Sweat, Prayers (and Sugar)
Hottest Rhythms, Coolest Tunes! SAMBA!
And others seldom thought of
Epicure for Gods & Mortals
Civilized discussion with respect to Bahia & Brazil
Cloves, Cachaça, & Stupidly Cold Beer
If the world is a stage, this is the bandstand.
Takin' it to the Streets
From Surfside Partying to Idyllic Splendor
Dance like a Baryshnikov...hit like a Kalashnikov
Heaviest Hands
Ubiquitous Deities: 1,165 sacred houses in Salvador alone
Salvador S.O.S.
Manorial, Shantified, Towering, Humbly Jumbled
Runaway Slave Villages and Relaxing Millionaires
Up the Underbelly!
A tongue like molten pewter
Mobius-Strip Transit
More than Newton's 1st law makes the world go round
Zoom out
Hedge Caveat Emptor
'Round Back of Olodumaré's Universe
Far Horizons
Accoutrements
Other People and Perspectives, in English & Português
Compromised smile?
Tropical Variance
Páginas Pessoais de Músicos Brasileiros
Personal Music Pages
By Daniel Bluementhal
Encanto de Itapoan, Seaside
